Beauty Business News

I’ll kick off with an update re Pat McGrath Labs and Reward Style and another thank you to everyone who was so helpful. So, Reward Style (the affiliate agency) have agreed to pay a ‘makegood bonus’ amount of $344 and that payment comes from them rather than the brand. I don’t know how that’s calculated and orders are still being placed via my link. It seems that it has been the brand’s decision to turn off linking for UK based content creators – the irony being that this brand is founded by a British woman of whom we are immensely proud and whose brand, personally, I feel should be supporting UK based creators, particularly around the special deals that level the playing field on affordability and aren’t available at UK stockists such as Selfridges.  It transpires that brands make the decision whether or not to offer affiliate linking across all regions – it’s not Reward Style making that decision. So, at some point, Pat McGrath Labs has decided that the only notable value is in the US links and not elsewhere.  Several US brands (notably Sephora and Nordstrom) didn’t want to comply with our GDPR regulations and therefore switched off linking capabilities. So, this is where we are at now but really, I don’t feel done with this or the feeling that many US brands don’t recognise anything that happens outside their own doorstep as of value. As an aside, not one single peep from Pat McGrath Labs UK PR who should have been all over this. Even more annoying is the fact that my order of balms just never registered and in the fuss, I didn’t realise.

A big shout out to Eucerin for their plan to remove leaflets from their packaging. The aim to cut them out for good by 2021 will say goodbye 20 million leaflets per year… and that’s just one brand. Imagine how much paper could be saved if everyone re-thought their packaging in this way.

On one of my rare visits into London I actually went to a Lush store (first time in years) to search for their ‘self-timing’ soap – what a genius idea. It’s a tiny bar of soap that lasts 30 seconds to keep you washing for the optimum time. It’s only in UAE currently and it’s in collaboration with Deliveroo over there – I mean, a prime marketing opportunity to get Lush literally into the hands of potential consumers. I wonder how long soap leaves last and whether they can also be considered self-timing. More HERE.

The owners of Phyto Haircare and Lierac (which I seem only ever to see in TK Maxx) are entering administration. The Ales Group has been hit by a freeze in distribution because of Covid19 and couldn’t withstand the financial implications of that. They won’t be alone I am sure.

Rumours have been rife that M&S is lining up as a potential buyer for Victoria’s Secret whose UK arm went into administration in June. Imagine that…. not just any old lace up bustier..

Space NK is closing its US stores (they have existing wholesale partnerships with Nordstrom and Bloomingdales which will continue). It’s interesting that the trend for local stores (we have a branch here in South East London) suddenly looks like foresight since shopping habits are skewing local so dramatically and central town stores are left empty.

I feel quite sad that Clarisonic will be no more – somehow L’Oreal just couldn’t make it work but it’s a good gadget (amongst a slew of pointless ones) that actually does a great job of cleansing. But, it’s shutting up shop for good (although warranties will be valid until at least next year). The founder of Clarisonic has his sights set on single dose beauty shots under the name Opulus. The website is currently a holding page where you can sign up for news as it happens HERE.

The business of mask wearing is rapidly becoming beauty territory – and as we know the beauty industry leaves no opportunity sitting idle. Expect skin care to prevent ‘maskne’ (a marketing word) which in fact, you probably only need to address if you are wearing masks for extended periods of time – a quick bus or train trip isn’t going to trouble your complexion. Also expect impregnated disposable masks designed to keep skin clear and for cloth masks, this ‘mask refresher’ from Enfusia in the US which deodorises (but doesn’t disinfect). Actually, I am waiting for a cloth mask disinfecting spray which I would buy in an instant – washing cloth masks has got tiresome already.


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34 responses to “Beauty Business News”

  1. Ayse

    Well talking about paper waste, the lush soap seems to use a lot of paper. Do they really need to wrap each tiny soap?

    1. Jane Cunningham

      I thought that, but knowing Lush it’s already recycled and recylable which I don’t have a problem with. But I will see if I can find out more because you’re right – if it isn’t, then that’s totally against their own ethos!

    2. Wendy Hardy

      Guess that’s where the Eucerin paper goes… Cheers Wendy

  2. Sarah

    That’s a shame about Phyto. I really like their products. I love your industry round-ups, Jane. I don’t get to see this kind of news anywhere else and I’m really interested in what’s going on behind the scenes.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      Thanks Sarah – good to know you’re enjoying the news posts. x

  3. Cal

    Oh god, M&S had better not mix up their Per Una range with Victoria’s Secret, or there’ll be crotchless knickers with frills, furbelows, and mismatched buttons everywhere.

    Pretty disgusted at the behaviour of Pat M’s PR. If I were intending a purchase, it’d be cancelled immediately.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      haha :-)))

  4. Sally short

    I can’t believe Pat’s Pr hasn’t sent you those balms already. What are they DOING?!

    1. Jane Cunningham

      lol.. no idea… they’re not responsive at the best of times.

      1. Lesley

        I asked Adeola a simple question about matching a Pat McGrath foundation to a Bobbi Brown foundation (thinking this would be a no brainer as she’d just left Bobbi Brown) but no reply. I explained I live on the South Coast, going to London wasn’t an option and the cost of the Pat McGrath foundation meant I wanted to get it right. If people representing a company can’t be bothered to answer DMs then disable the function on their Instagram accounts.

        While I’m mithering about Pat McGrath can someone please explain why I need a ton of plastic gold sequins added to an order? Have they not read or watched anything about the environment?

        Jane, as always thanks for the business news – always one of my favourite posts from you. I’m now off to order some Phyto products which I’m really sorry to see disappear.

        1. Jane Cunningham

          I don’t know who Adeola is (sorry!!) but I know these things can easily get missed – my advice (not that it’s asked for!) is to wait until you have the opportunity to try it in person. Even if that’s a long time. I’ve tried the foundation – loved it but is it the holy grail? No, not really – foundations are ten a penny these days. Everyone is complaining about the sequins – shame they haven’t read the room yet.

        2. Trimperley

          Lesley there are no testers on the counters in the shops at the moment so if you want to try a new product Google as many swatches as you can find and cross your fingers and order. I’m actually enjoying this new way of shopping. I’ve picked some colours that have turned out ok that I would have never have bought in a shop if I had seen them first.

  5. Victoria

    Hi Jane,

    I really appreciate the update on Pat McGrath – from what I’ve been hearing lately they only really care about the US market and from their behaviour recently I am less than inclined to spend my money with them. Great products or not, alienating customers is never going to go down well in the long run.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      The awful thing is that I was at the launch, listened to Pat being so enthusiastic and excited about it and really felt quite bonded with it. I have no doubt that Pat herself will have no clue about this. x

  6. Sebastian

    Victoria’s Secret seems like a potential misfire for M&S – so many customers just want reliable quality and preferably British manufacturing back, whereas VS seems very dated (00s in a bad way) and tacky to me. Even the beauty part of it doesn’t really fit in with their other brands. I am a fan of their beauty offerings generally but would rather see a focus on UK producers and sustainability (and I’m not vegan but I’m sure vegan beauty is very important to many customers too).

    Very disappointed with Pat McGrath Labs here, especially as it’s a brand I would love to support given Pat’s contribution to British beauty generally.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      I’m quite curious to see what an M&S/VS hybrid might look like – sensible thongs. I do see why they might be interested as their Rosie range – which is a bit more racy for them – does really well.

  7. Donna

    I was shocked about Clarisonic but hey I have 10 unused heads to keep me going.

    That is outrageous how US brands seem to be ignoring UK influencers’ links to sales. PMcG I am so disappointed in what they are doing. But a number of people already are with the limited releases creating a frenzy then a few months later just release the palette again anyway.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      Yes, now is the time to stock up (although doesn’t sound like you need to). The thing about the gadgets market in general is that it gets hyped and hyped and said to be worth X billion and yet, most of them lie in a drawer unused after the initial use. I don’t get it.

  8. Lizzie

    “ I don’t feel done with this, or the feeling that many US brands don’t recognise anything that happens outside their own doorstep as of value.”

    This really struck a chord with me (as did the mention of Sephora literally not giving enough of a f*ck to bother becoming GDPR-compliant). It’s a real thing. I can’t tell you how many articles I’ve read recently that have made reference to “the pandemic that’s sweeping the US”, as though the whole world is not affected. I see this kind of thing a lot, and it doesn’t endear America to me, even though it’s a place I love to visit.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      It’s so obvious at the moment – hadn’t really noticed it before. I think perhaps we are all guilty of just being aware of our own doorstep and it’s not until something like this happens that you have to have a think about it.

  9. Wendy Hardy

    Guess that’s where the Eucerin paper goes… Cheers Wendy

  10. Jo Delaney

    Dettol do a fabric spray.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      OHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! Ordering now!

      1. Jo Delaney

        It’s called Dettol Spray and Wear. I think I got mine from Tesco’s.

        1. Jane Cunningham

          Oh right – thank you so much x

        2. Ana

          I’m not sure this is the right product for covid-19. From the description it states that it’s for bacteria that causes odours; there is no mention of viruses.

          I use the Surface Cleanser all the time in the kitchen, which kills 99.9% of bacteria and viruses, but I don’t know whether it would be effective for this coronavirus in particular or safe to use if face masks…

          1. Jane Cunningham

            I didn’t think anything could kill viruses – I understand it needs more investigation but there are mask sprays emerging on the market so I need to look at the difference between them.

  11. Jo Mille Saisons

    Another YesStyle find of mine was ‘paper soap’ which are little packets of soap leaves. I bought one for taking to hotels instead of using those often wasteful mini bars of soap but haven’t been away yet to test them!

  12. Arpita

    I can believe there will be a (small) market for “maskne.” I work in a hospital (as a librarian, not doing patient care), and I have heard anecdotes about skin breakouts from health care workers who wear a mask 12 hours a day. I would not be surprised if grocery store workers experience acne, as well.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      Yes, I think an issue when wearing for extended periods but not for nipping out and about it.

  13. Trimperley

    I like Eucerin and I like paper inserts. I always read them, it’s part of the fun of opening a new box.

  14. Sarah

    I work in a factory we wear masks all day every day and our factory has to be very humid. I don’t think maskne is a thing at all, yes some of our team get spots but they don’t disappear when they go on two weeks holiday.

    Think of it this way If you get spots on your chest or back, are they made worse by wearing t shirt and better by wearing a vest?

    This whole thing makes me think of Dove and armpit gate

    1. Jane Cunningham

      I’m really sceptical too – the beauty industry has a habit of making problems to sell you solutions..

  15. Lucy Waheed

    Caudalie stopped the leaflets and plastic spatulas a while ago

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