Beauty Business News January 2021

 

It’s been something of a fraught time for beauty brands, particularly make-up, as sales have been unpredictable to say the least. According to WWD though, the category that has risen is nails! I can’t say I saw that coming because industry analysts Mintel, nail sales were predicted to fall well into 2022. That analysis didn’t predict a pandemic, it must be said. Supermarket sales of make-up have dropped by a reported 22%, while fragrance and hair care are predicted to grow.

Bioderma Nodé Shampoo

The race is well and truly on for beauty brands hoping to enter China without the mandatory animal testing as France has just been given the go-ahead to apply to enter the market under these no-test terms. There are some exemptions from the rules however, with sun protection and hair dyes excluded.

Pat McGrath Mothership At Selfridges

Wonderful news, if you are a fan of the honours system, that Pat McGrath has been given a damehood and in more good news the British Beauty Council has secured a specific sector status. This means that Personal Care, which covers most of the beauty industry, has its own representation rather than being seen as part of other sectors such as retail or hospitality. This is timely, given how hard the industry has been hit by government decisions – all made while PC lived in other sectors.

There’s been a great deal of anger over influencers not ‘reading the room’ during the course of the pandemic with holiday snaps uploaded to Instagram topping the list of things that everyone feels annoyed about. However, mega-influencer, Kylie Jenner, has come under fire for producing a for profit hand sanitizer. I can’t tell you, behind the scenes, how generous the beauty industry has been, in donating personal care items mostly without any need for recognition so I see why this billionaire is in hot water for another perceived dollar grab.

Dove (Unilever) is donating £170,000 to help end hair discrimination. It’s probably a discrimination that passed you by unless you’ve experienced it yourself but Black communities face it significantly. The aim is to create a respectful and open world for natural hair and there is nothing to argue with there. However, Dove has had some attention for misleading advertising on a baby product that claimed to nourish a baby’s microbiome. The ASA found that there wasn’t enough evidence to substantiate the claim so the ad (which was on FB) could no longer appear.

In celebrity launch news, Jennifer Lopez has launched a skin care line, JLo Beauty, with olive oil derived squalane at its heart. That JLo Glow Serum is $118. I’m sensing a class action at any moment from people who did not get that JLo Glow. Dolly Parton’s forthcoming fragrance is what I’m holding my breath for…

L’Oreal is hitting the headlines – first for its acquisition of Japanese brand, Takami. It’s a skin care brand with derm clinics in Tokyo and their No.1 selling product is the blue bottled Skin Peel Serum (it’s readily available but pricing is not regulated – I’ve seen it for as low as £35 and as high as £71). Next, in L’Oreal news, the brand has committed to ban badger hair (and any other animal hair) in the use of its brushes. Grooming range, Baxters of California, is named as one of the brands using animal hair. I’m just thinking of all the times L’Oreal said they didn’t test on animals and yet, the use of animal hair somehow didn’t come under that banner. Finally, the L’Oreal Elvive 8 Second Wonder Water that I tried from the US last year is just about to launch in the UK.  It’s amazing.


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8 responses to “Beauty Business News January 2021”

  1. Jo

    Thank you Jane, I always find these reports very interesting.
    Do you think that Sephora in the US will allow UK customers to buy from them again now that we’re no longer in the European Community? There was a theory that it was the EU data privacy regulations that led them to stop shipping to the UK, and it looks as though Sephora France will no longer ship to the UK. Cheers, Jo xxx

    1. Jane Cunningham

      That’s an interesting thought – I don’t know to be honest ..and yes, I’d heard about France but actually, do we miss having a Sephora? I don’t think we do any more as we have access to so many brands now. It was only alluring for the things we couldn’t have :-))

    2. Lesley

      There are some other US companies that can’t be bothered with GDPR such as Williams-Sonoma and I take the view that if they and Sephora US can’t be bothered with the UK market then I can’t be bothered with them.

      1. Jane Cunningham

        It’s really frustrating.

  2. Trimperley

    Not surprised about nail polish sales increasing. If folks are at home with more time to spare why not paint your nails. Beauty brands need to find new places to sell. I’d buy from the gift shop of a garden centre.

    Beauty Business News on a Monday is discombobulating. It’s usually a Thurday/Friday treat.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      I know, I’m sorry – the mood just took me to do it there and then. It can feel a bit of an onerous task to be honest so when I felt the mood for it I just got on with it before I got distracted 🙂 I could easily see a brand like Paul & Joe in a lovely garden centre shop…

  3. Sue

    If you look into indie nail polish you will find a flourishing industry (and has been since 2012). Brands, usually a American but there are a few UK ones such as Prism and Dangletree.

    Interesting about the no test into China. About time.

    Love your updates,

    1. Jane Cunningham

      Thanks Sue – yes, I’m aware of lots of indie brands but from back in time when polish was booming – wasn’t aware of more recent ones so thank you for the info.. will look them up x

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