Beauty Business News

Let’s jump straight into a selection of topical beauty news by starting off with the Estee Lauder executive president who has a bit of advanced repair to do himself. John Dempsey was suspended quicker than you can say ELC after posting a racially offensive meme on Instagram. He’s issued a fulsome apology but I’ve seen the meme – and have no answers to the question of how it could have happened in the first place.

THG (formerly The Hut Group) finds its shares plummeting according to Investing Cube. Shares are trading at 101p which apparently is 88% less than their highest share price point. That is a lot. THG had a value high of £7 billion and it is currently estimated at £1.24 billion. Having been the most voracious of brand buyers over the past few years, it’s a possibility that THG may find themselves being bought. Cityam reports that Matt Moulding’s mum emailed the Sunday Times journalist, Oliver Shah, to ask why the journalists there weren’t more appreciative of Matt’s ‘outstanding achievements’. So, that’s an awkward family lunch to follow especially as she apparently ended with a comment on their dreary dead end jobs. Not sure how fun Mother’s Day is going to be.

Last BBN I reported that BH Cosmetics who filed for bankruptcy last month. The brand is being bought by Make Up Revolution (whose shares, I have to say, have also dipped and I know that because I have some) for $3.9 million. BH fits right in to the Revolution portfolio – they’re uncommonly similar in output to the point that I’d be hard pressed to tell some of their products apart. I like this outcome for the job protection it will hopefully offer.

You know I love a class action report – but this one is extra extra and the sort of claim that probably drives a L’Oreal lawyer to consider their career options. So, an American ‘consumer’, represented by an American lawyer is bringing a class action lawsuit over the use of the word ‘Paris’ on L’Oreal Paris products. The claim is that by referencing Paris, the (French) brand is misleading their customers because the products are made in Arkansas (America). If you’ve been damaged by this distressing information, please stake your claim.

A little story running on Instagram of potential copyright infringement has just started up on Instagram. A filter called Peekaboo Portraits from @milanoartguide that was created in 2020 (and is ALL the fun by allowing users to add their own moving eyes to old Italian portraits) seems to have been the influence for Dior’s ‘The New Era filter’ featuring the artworks of Italian artist Mariella Bettineschi which allows the user to add their own moving eyes. Dior has 39.6 million followers, while Milanoartguide has 35.1. Not cool and not fair.

Estee Lauder (again) has taken a minority stake in Haeckels – a Margate based beauty brand that uses both the ocean and the microbiome as USPs. Haeckels has sparked the interest of several major brands since its inception in 2012 for being an early(ish) adopter of sustainable sourcing and its use of natural British resources. The reaction has been mixed amongst Haeckels fans (for that you can read that they seem mostly livid).

Clinique and M&S have announced a partnership in which M&S will provide around 500 Clinique products both in stores and on-line (for next day click and collect). 34 stores will have Clinique counters. If you wondered what would happen to beauty halls now that so many of our department stores are no more, this is the answer. Is M&S about to be the new beauty hall? Brands who previously invested heavily in stand alone stores to cut out the margins to and costs of department stores are now having a little word with themselves as they watch next generation beauty retail flourish. One of the reasons that supermarket beauty does well is because it’s more time effective and rewarding to combine pleasure (face masks, serums, lipsticks) with pain (bread, milk, cheese, loo roll) so moving that to a fashion retail environment with the family dinner thrown in has a lot of appeal.

Sources & Resources: cityam.com , globalcosmeticsnews, marksandspencercorporate, investingcube.


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12 responses to “Beauty Business News”

  1. Arpita

    Regarding the story on THG and behind the scenes family machinations: It seems like you can never be too old to be a helicopter parent!

    1. Jane Cunningham

      I know right!

  2. Megan

    Clinique and M&S feels like quite a good fit. Neither really cutting edge, both a bit of a safe bet for basics. I’m interested to see what happens with other make up offerings in M&S like Diego Dalla Palma and if they jump ship when retail space is inevitably lost to Clinique.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      That’s a good point Megan! It used to work one in one out but I think maybe M&S has slightly more flexible space…

  3. LizzieO

    Thank you Jane! I enjoy these posts so much, and they help me to slow down and think about what I buy as well (because of what gets revealed from behind the very attractive scenes) but that’s another story…I still miss Roget and Gallet soaps and colognes, my local M&S had just the best selection of them for ages! Hope they return to stores at some point whenever the latest overhaul/new owner shakeup is complete…and yes, nice to be reminded of Diego dalla Palma too so thanks to the commenter above for that 🙂 Wishing you a peaceful and happy weekend.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      Thanks Lizzie 🙂 Roger & Gallet should have more availability soon because they’re with a good distributor (Kenneth Green).

  4. KarenA

    When the John Lewis and Debenhams closed in our city (Aberdeen so now 2.5 hours’ drive to John Lewis), the big Boots in the city centre grabbed all the good make up concessions (Bobbi Brown and others) and added new ones (Eg Huda) at the same time. Very much miss the make up counters at JL and D’hams but good on our local Boots for keeping them in an actual store.
    The ‘big’ M&S in the city centre has a great beauty hall too with different brands to Boots.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      I think M&S beauty halls work much better outside London – the ones on Oxford street are relentlessly empty as is a local one. Maybe it’s different now HoF and Debs are gone.

  5. Trimperley

    Go Mama Moulding, I like the way she rolls.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      Little bit of MM in all of us I bet 😉

  6. niche

    Late comment here but I recall when John Dempsey posted a meme that basically mocked Meghan Markle and there was a bit of racism tinged in the humor of that meme post but much more covertly. I only recall it because someone called out that Violette FR the makeup artist commented laughingly on it and I was quite surprised as she is in an interracial relationship herself.

    On another note, as a long time international shopper at Cult Beauty, I was pretty disappointed when THG bought and then revamped the online shop. Before, we would have UK VAT deducted and just pay local tax on import. Now, they just covert to our local currency with the VAT included and I still have to pay local taxes. I haven’t shopped there since it happened last October/November-ish. So annoying.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      I hadn’t realised re the VAT thing – that is very frustrating. And, I’m sorry, I was unaware re Violette – I don’t really follow celeb news so that one passed me by but thank you so much for flagging as something to take note of in future. 🙂

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