Revlon is a brand that has struggled for some years now to find its place, with net sales falling 39% (we are still talking over $500 million though). But, many brands are seeing sharp downturns in fortune – Shiseido is recording a drop of 34.4% (although watch them branch out into devices to recoup), while LVMH’s (Dior, Guerlain, Givenchy, Fenty, Benefit) profits see a drop of 68% for the first half of the year. There’s still a lot of shuffling around going on – on-line sales are, of course, mitigating some of the dips.
Look out for Chrom Tooth Polish – a coloured (or glittered) coating to temporarily change your tooth colour. It’s proving a huge hit on social media channels – perhaps don’t chance it at Tesco. It’s not a new brand – it’s just having a moment, amplified by Tik Tok.
Another innovation to seek out is Alchemist Atelier – an at-home fragrance creating device called the Scent Creator. You load up your scent pods (up to 12 at a time) with the help of an app that guides you through your preferences – the Discovery Kit is your best bet for the complete experience, housing 36 sample size fragrances to best choose options for your Creator. The device is £350, the Discovery Kit £85, and a Starter Set, £55. I reckon this might be the Christmas beauty hit.
L’Oreal has caused a furore by reportedly requesting that those employees who wish to stay working from home instead of coming back into the office (the brand’s preference) to supply medical records. It’s a little more complex than first reported however (on Estee Laundry), with the specifics boiling down to employees requiring medical exemption from returning supplying, in most cases, nothing more than a doctor’s note. Apparently.
Unilever has swiftly brought Lifebuoy back to the UK, seeing a perfect, newly clean-obsessed market on their hands. Last spotted on shelves in the 90’s you can expect to buy hand wipes, sanitizer, handwash, soap and moisturisers. I can’t wait for a re-introduction – I can’t even remember what it smells like but do remember it being ever present. Unilever, by the way, is one of the few beauty giants doing well, off set by their cleaning and hygiene products. You can find it in Superdrug.
The Goop store premises in Westbourne Grove are available for rent. Maybe no surprise there as on-line seems to serve Goop better as a fast moving brand. It may be a timely end of lease or an indication that bricks and mortar aren’t necessary.
Something that has gone largely uncovered is the tricky question, in product development, of product testing. A COVID situation isn’t ideal to ask human testers to enter labs for the purpose of product testing and evaluation. So, the ‘tested on 100 women’ may well, for the foreseeable future turn into the altogether less impressive ‘self-assessed by 100 (eg) women’. Self-assessment relies on answers to questions that are phrased in such a way that there is only a positive response and are, in effect, meaningless. Clinical setting testing is more weighty. I’m keeping an eye on this one, just in case animal testing rears its ugly head.
Glossier has made the decision to cut all its store retail jobs and closing their three stores until at least next year. It has stores in London, New York and LA. The London store was initially a pop-up but stayed popped up for longer than most.
SpaceNK is apparently saying goodbye to 300 in-store brand reps – another horrible loss for the industry and one that doesn’t see to make any sense as the reps aren’t paid by SpaceNK anyway, they’re paid by the brands. Other than reducing head count in stores, everyone is baffled by this decision which isn’t supportive of an industry that’s suffering anyway. However, this could be the way back to impartial in-store advice instead of being unwittingly directed towards specific brands whose reps were in that day.
An interesting brand to watch is Black Girl Sunscreen which has just received $1 million in funding from a ‘female investor’. It’s been available in Target in the US for some time and is one of very few sunscreens specifically targeted for black skin. It’s vegan and reef-safe, white residue free and highly moisturising with cacao seed butter and avocado. I’m going to speculate that when the female private investor is revealed this brand will absolutely rocket to stardom.
E.l.f. is joining forces with Alicia Keys for what seems to be a skin care brand launching in 2021. Super interesting to see where the price point will lie, given that e.l.f. is known for it’s budget friendly products. There are a few clues to the nature of the launch in initial statements – such as ‘honouring ritual’ and ‘practicing intention’… sounds like yoga to me or at the least, affordable Goop.
Looks like Elemis is the first beauty brand to offer a no-touch facial to circumvent the close contact rules that are blighting the beauty industry. The facial relies on minimal contact device driven elements with tools that are easily sanitized. It doesn’t sound exactly like the full luxury facial experience but applause is necessary for leading the way and looking at viable alternatives that could suit all brands and all salons.
The last word for P&G’s Oral B ‘Guide’. A toothbrush with Alexa built in. Insert huge ‘scream’ emoji here.
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Fab, a very juicy sorry a most informative post as ever Jane, I love these. I am loving ELF right now, thanks to you and the lovely people in my local Superdrug. That’s interesting about L’Oreal – where I work we are being told to stay working from home for as long as possible, better safe than sorry. Will Black Girl Sunscreen come across the big pond.. I hope so, sounds an amazing brand. I wonder who the superstar investor could be.. erm um draws up a shortlist 🙂
As for Revlon gosh I wish they’d look at their heritage a little (remember that blockbuster Avedon campaign with “the most unforgettable women wear Revlon” Oprah, various supermodels etc and use their current faces in something similar) and why not get their nail varnishes more to the fore once again. If L’Oreal is still using “because you’re worth it” after 20 (?) years then why not?
As for the Alexa toothbrush, no just no!
I’ve compiled my guess list – Oprah at the top followed by Rhianna 🙂
Ooh that’s interesting.
I ruled Rhianna out due to Fenty skincare having its own SPF.
Wouldn’t Rhianna have released a sunscreen through Fenty though? My guess is the mighty Beyonce…. 🙂
Yes I guess she would – but she may have other interests outside of LVMH.
Interesting! I wonder if this sunscreen is tinted… As for toothbrush – I have now one from Xiaomi that also coordinates with app on my mobile and totally love it above my previous Oral-b and Philips ones: it tells me every time if I missed anything (shows teeth scheme and % of success), cleanses VERY good (and polishes! not, of course that my teeth are immediately snow-white, it’s impossible, but they are smooth like mirror), keeps a history in the app and is less pricey (still about 60Euro for a brush+2 extra heads). Looks nice too 🙂
No, I don’t think it is tinted – I think it’s more that it doesn’t give a white cast on black skin and is extra nourishing. I can’t with a toothbrush app – although you make it sound quite tempting!
🙂 Honestly, I don’t care about app that much, but it truly cleans good and I like that it shows (on the little screen on the brush itself) if I missed any area…
Dior has totally revamped their 5 colours eyeshadows I know as I got an early release email. Hopefully, it will help their sales as my cousin works for them.
A am friendly with an Emma Hardie rep she once told me she sells at least 3 times the number of products in M&S than a day spent in SpaceNK! I will be sorry not to see the reps as some were so friendly not pushy and great at giving samples to try.
Interesting re M&S Sales – haven’t heard anything from M&S beauty for ages. x
Love your beauty business News! It is soo informativ, thank you!
I agree with other commenters, I love this type of post. My guess for the black sunscreen invest is Beyoncé.
Oh, good call!
The last thing I want in a billion years is neon teeth.
I find Space NK genuinely intimidating, even though I know my stuff and could confidently talk about Sunday Riley versus Tata Harper. I never, ever go in my local branch because I can’t be bothered to do the full HD makeup, hair and outfit I’d need to pluck up the courage to speak to anyone.
I’m so tempted to get some just to try!
I’m wondering if a voice assisted toothbrush app would be helpful for people experiencing vision loss, or those with disabilities affecting spatial awareness/coordination. I’d rather have a toothbrush specific app rather than Alexa though – I’m a reluctant user of Amazon but Alexa is something I refuse to get. I don’t need Jeff Bezos spying on my teeth!
I think that’s a very good point.
Not sure I understand the question? I rarely look at Estee Laundry – it used to be great but just got mean and personal so I gave it up!
Thanks. That answers my question!
Oh, I just realised you were maybe asking what it was! Sorry 🙂 – it’s an instagram account that calls out brand behaviour. Any more Q’s just ask!
My fault. Was a tad too cryptic.
Non touch facial – hang on, haven’t Guinot been doing that for years with the Hydraderm machine – have you just found a loop hole for us?
ooh I don’t know 😉 further investigation needed.
Agreed – and fast!
With regard to the 100 women tested thing, I’m pretty sure that most of those figures are from the home tested market as I’ve tested tons of those things for years at home and never had to go in for clinical measurements etc. I know Good Housekeeping does some in clinic as well as at home testing but I’ve never done those. I think it’s safe to say that in the majority of ads it’s self-assessed and, as you say, the surveys tend to have obscure subjective things like does your skin feel more radiant or some such. They do, however, tend to take a questionnaire after first use, 1 week, 2 weeks etc so there is scope for you to be able to notice some difference but I’m sure a lot of people think they have to be positive as it was a free product and put high scores from the start (uncorroborated but judging by some of the online reviews I’ve seen I’d wager there’s quite a few of those) or don’t understand the question and err on the side of yes rather than no. Interestingly my usual testing dried up during Covid 19 due to safety of people packing in office/warehouse rather than it not being an effective trial.
Re SpaceNK, I find that branches differ tremendously. I lived in Marlow for a long time and found the staff in that branch very snooty and they would ignore anyone over the age of 40. The girls in the Henley store, however, only a few miles down the road, were very friendly and helpful. Shame if some close as they have brands that are quite often difficult to find elsewhere in your area.
Interesting about the L’Oreal staff. Have to say I think those who are able to continue to work from biome are VERY lucky. I work for a major charity and we were threatened with disciplinary if we didn’t return to the office back in early June. It’s very real that employers are not being fair. Back to beauty….I love Space NK but I agree that they were a little bit like a stuffy designer clothing store at times and I prefer the online experience.