[unpaid/sample/affiliate/ad] You know you are in hallowed territory when the nose responsible for Carnal Flower and Portrait of a Lady (Dominique Ropion) puts his skills to a new fragrance for Turkish brand, Nishane. I’ve featured Nishane candles before now but Tuberoza X is the first fragrance I’ve had and oh. my. goodness.
Founded in 2015, Nishane is owned by Murat Katran and Mert Guzel and the name means sign or symbol in Turkish. It’s inspiration is both modern city and cultural heritage. This is a revised version of the original Tuberoza, hence the X which means extra and oh yes, this is extra indeed! As the name might suggest, the fragrance is constructed around an Indian tuberose absolute and puts green notes against violet notes without distracting from the essence of tuberose.
Tuberose is one of those night blooms that has a tipping point – one minute its insanely sexy and the next, it’s starting to smell like the first signs of decay. I notice this with my jasmine flower every year – gorgeous until it isn’t and then I can’t bear it. Dominique Ropion has inserted a clever lipstick accord (I love that this even exists) that keeps the fragrance from edging past tantalizing.
Another night bloomer – ylang ylang hovers in the opening notes and if there’s any grounding to be had, you’ll find it in the amber and sandalwood base. Honestly though, the tuberose and ylang ylang are predominant in this blend although as the day wore on, I started to smell the mandarin which cut nicely through the sweet, powdery and heady effect of the dominant ingredients.
Unlike some costa-lotta fragrances (don’t start me), Nishane Tuberoza X Extrait actually smells exquisitely expensive. Run a mile if you don’t want to smell seductive and irresistible, run forward to Selfridges if you do. I’d suggest that it’s very much a fragrance for right now because it definitely has a nights-drawing-in vibe but I imagine it equally at home bringing an enveloping warmth in winter months. It’s £210 HERE.
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