MAC, Rodarte And The Women of Juaraz


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(image source: www.chicprofile.com)

MAC! What Were You Thinking?
Notorious for their collaborations – some great, some not so – MAC’s collaboration with Rodarte is truly a ‘did not think it through’ situation. Fashion is so quick to disappear up its backside sometimes, with incomprehensible inspirations, but beauty in general tends to tell it how it is – if it’s a Disney collaboration, there will be Mickey Mouse somewhere, not a distant, vague set of mouse-ears-by-candlelight inference. This isn’t always the case; I’ve been presented sometimes with an overworked inspiration that even the most seasoned critic would struggle to find a connection that your average beauty consumer can relate to.

Back at MAC base-camp though, someone, somewhere thought that Rodarte’s horribly macabre inspiration of Mexican town Juarez, notable for its unbelievably high murder count, was a fabulously commercial idea. Juarez is also noted for ‘feminicidios’ – female homicides and las muertas de Juarez (the dead women of Juarez). These murders remain largely unsolved. The fact that the desperately underpaid female factory workers have probably never even heard of MAC, never mind Rodarte, let alone be able to afford a slice of either is adding insult to injury.

Rodarte (Kate and Laura Mulleavy) took their ‘inspiration’ for their 2010 Fall fashion range from ‘lines of women workers making their way to factory jobs in the middle of the night.’ The same women, let’s remember, who on financial grounds will never own even a MAC eyeliner. Who in their right minds thinks that this is a look that should be reflected for commercial purposes? Oh, that’s right. MAC. I’ve taken details from an article by www.colorlines.com – well worth a read, who have already shown statements from both parties falling over themselves to apologise. Other research finds that women who work in the factories do so under terrible conditions, with some required to show ‘used’ tampons for three months to prove they aren’t pregnant. How any of this – and believe me, I am sparing with the details for they go on and on – can be used for a commercial beauty or fashion range is just beyond me. Brands flock to Juarez to set up factories because Juarez commands low wages, tax breaks and low freight costs, thus inflating the profit margin.

Juarez is a city in deep poverty; base to a mass of multi-national owned factories – Johnson & Johnson being one – it’s where drug wars are won and lost to huge human cost. If you look at the make-up, there is an ethereal landscape theme that’s almost romantic, until you realize the source is a landscape of hideous oppression, violence and fear. In my view, that’s bordering on criminal to try and make a buck from such a back story.
So, to MAC’s statement (again taken from www.colorlines.com) .
‘M•A•C Cosmetics Statement:
We understand that product names in the M•A•C Rodarte collection have offended some of our consumers and fans. This was never our intent and we are very sorry. We are listening carefully to the comments posted and are grateful to those of you who have brought your concerns to the forefront of our attention. M•A•C will give a portion of the proceeds from the M•A•C Rodarte collection to help those in need in Juarez. We are diligently investigating the best way to do this. Please be assured that we will keep you posted on the details regarding our efforts.’
First problem, ‘a portion’ of sales. Personally, I feel they should either withdraw the range entirely or donate the entire profits to charities that can do real work for those in crisis in Juarez. How do you count an appropriate portion from something so inappropriate? Second, it’s not just the product names (Factory, Ghost Town etc), it’s the whole collaboration, from the creative strategy meeting where it was touted as a ‘great idea’ to the end profit making product.
Rodarte’s statement is a waffle about creative development and a ‘desert palette’. They’re ‘truly saddened’ about injustice in Juarez. I suspect their sorrow is much heightened by the fact that the ill-conceived inspiration is causing alarm amongst anyone with the slightest conscience.

There’s just nothing beautiful about any of this, and, let’s not forget that MAC, owned by Lauder, couldn’t, in my view, even have done a basic Wiki search on the back story, or if they did, it beggars belief that they’d think it a collaboration with a nano-particle of conscience or sensitivity.
It’s not just me that feels consumers should be informed about this calamitous collaboration; other bloggers – notably,
www.makeupadviceforum.com ,
www.mizzworthy.blogspot.com
www.bangsandabun.com
www.ladyofthelane.com
www.big-fashionista.blogspot.com
www.vexinthecity.com
www.sofarsochic.co.uk
www.londonmakeupgirl.com
www.lesalondebeaute.com
www.getlippie.com
www.londonbeautyqueen.blogspot.com
www.kraseybeauty.com
www.makeuploveer.blogspot.com
www.the6inchstilettos.blogspot.com
www.sparklesandbows.blogspot.com
www.katiechutzpah.blogspot.com
www.beautymouth.com
www.musicalhouses.blogspot.com
www.just-nice-things.co.uk
www.healingbeauty.co.uk

share similar personal views.

It’s not for me to judge on whether you do or don’t buy into the collection, but it’s worth bearing in mind that in the days before blogs, we’d likely be completely oblivious to branding ethics before making a purchase.

Further reading: http://dieoff.org/page77.htm, http://www.keith-miller.com/curatorial/juarez/pages/about.html


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35 responses to “MAC, Rodarte And The Women of Juaraz”

  1. Katie Chutzpah

    Excellent points.

  2. Mónica

    In case you have spanish readers like me, here’s my post about MAC/RODARTE on my blog:
    http://www.secretodebelleza.com/2010/07/controvertida-coleccion-rodarte-de-mac.html

  3. Sojourner

    I really appreciate that everyone has taken such a passionate interest in speaking out about this – well spoken, by the way 🙂

  4. young-shields

    shocking. these head honchos have neither google nor common sense, it seems.

    Claire

  5. SamMakeup MAF

    @konglishbeauty perhaps it was forgotten quickly – fashion changes so fast. Perhaps MAC is hoping that this too will be forgotten quickly when the rampage for the Christmas collection gets everyone going again…

    HAs happened before, will probably happen again…

    http://www.MakeupAdviceForum.com

  6. I really hope that consumer power and people protesting will get MAC to pull this collection or at the very least change the product names. I first found out about this controversy via Temptalia and must admit that I was not aware of the situation in Juarez. I am glad that I have been enlightened and hope that people take up arms. I’ve read up on the designers’ inspirations behind their fashion collection as well as their “statement” on their MAC collection and thought they came across as stupid, ignorant and vacuous to not see why people would be horrified at this. I’m glad that Temptalia left the comments up on her blog but am disappointed at trying to play Switzerland in the whole affair. I won’t be going near this collection with a barge pole.

  7. What is it with brands acting before thinking at the moment?!….This feels reminiscent of Selfridges, Manchester boo boo wiht the hanging McQueen dress. To think that there was a development process behind this is baffling.

  8. What the hell were MAC/Rodarte thinking?!?! Does no one know how to use google and wikkipedia?? If they have meant to highlight the issue in Juarez, then its working. But I fail to see how this mess would entice even die hard MAC addicts to purchase from this collection. Its sad really, from VIVA Glam to this! Epic fail MAC.

  9. What the hell were MAC/Rodarte thinking?!?! Does no one know how to use google and wikkipedia?? If they have meant to highlight the issue in Juarez, then its working. But I fail to see how this mess would entice even die hard MAC addicts to purchase from this collection. Its sad really, from VIVA Glam to this! Epic fail MAC.

  10. I can see that the Beauty blogging cummunity have taken up this cause but what about the fashionistas?? Rodarte are such darlings of the fashion world that there’s rarely a bad word said about them as they’re part of the in-crowd with the high fashion lot. I wonder if any fashion bloggers dare speak out about this or whether brush this aside as controversy and bad taste comes along regularly in fashion imagery. There wasn’t much brouhaha about the Rodarte fashion show the after all.

  11. I think it’s frankly disgusting that MAC did not realise how inappropriate and tasteless this collection would be. I honestly hope they withdraw it and find another way to help the women of Juarez.

  12. What makes it worse is that it’s MAC behind it. MAC have always been supposed to be about more than make-up. They’ve always been political and yet they’ve shown a lack of policial awareness in this entire affair so far.
    http://konglishbeauty.com/2010/07/19/mac-rodarte-the-controversy-and-why-we-care/

  13. Some great points – its interesting to see the different angles raised in all the posts about this. I was interested tgo get the perspective of an “industry insider” here on the marketing strategies etc that must have taken place to bring this collection to life… I was also interested in LillianLow’s piece about the artistic merits of the collection… its also great that we are coming together like this. x

  14. Perfectly Polished

    very well written! im so pleased we are all raising awareness on this topic!

    you can read my view here:

    http://bit.ly/baiPm6

    http://www.perfectly-polished-nails.com

    X

  15. Eileen

    I live in Southern California and taught ESL (English as a Second Language) to literally thousands of Latinos and Latinas during my 38 years with Los Angeles Unified School District. I have heard first hand accounts of the atrocities of Juarez from many of my students and their families that would cause you to have sleepless nights. That MAC would–for even one moment–think that the choice of a promo model made up to look like a cadaver is inspirational is totally beyond me. The choice of names for the products combined with the promo picture is appalling. I agree whole heartedly that MAC should donate the entire proceeds if anyone is callous enough to buy anything from this particular collection.

  16. OMG. the tampon thing is truly revolting. This whole inspiration is sickening. no other word for it. We are now 35 bloggers to have united and shared our thoughts on the topic: http://bit.ly/bloggerzunite
    I doubt we can changed things but at least we tried xx
    liloo/@tsunimee
    http://bit.ly/macrodarteshame

  17. Elise @ StuffThatIBought

    Thanks so much for posting this – I’m so grateful that we in Australia won’t be getting this collection because it is disturbing beyond belief to think they found ‘inspiration’ in such atrocities. Honestly, MAC and Rodarte need to take a good long look at themselves.

  18. You’re right — they clearly didn’t think this idea through. I also agree that they should find some better way to help these women, as throwing money doesn’t always solves problems.

    I find it especially sad that these offensive products are supposed to make women feel beautiful.

    I wrote a post on this as well, please check it out if you get a chance.

    http://mylipsbutbetter.blogspot.com/2010/07/mac-for-rodarte-my-two-cents.html

  19. Grace London

    It’s in extremely poor taste, and not the way to highlight the situation in Juarez in my opinion.

  20. Gigi (MumsRock)

    Thanks so much for writing about this – I had no idea this was going on (immersed as I so often am in my months/years old make-up bag).
    I think Konglish made a good point about whether fashion bloggers will be brave enough to speak out about this kind of misappropriation of issues, it actually quite stomach-churning when you think about it. But then there’s the problem too – most of the time we don’t think about this. Maybe we should.

  21. Helen (Nice Things)

    It’s horrendous and this is an excellent post. So dreadful to think that these poor women (who don’t give two hoots about MAC) are being exploited in this way.

  22. Ali

    Unless you’ve been living on another Planet for the past couple of decades, we’re all aware of the corporate exploitation of cheap labour around the World. This story serves to slap you sharply in the face with that fact. It might have been acceptable had M.A.C. and Rodarte been using this collection as a fund raising tool to raise awareness and try to effect change in Juarez. Instead, they’re backpedalling after the fact in an effort to save face.

    There’s dozens of beauty brands out there ladies. Surely you can find one who’s corporate ethics don’t leave a very bad taste in your mouth.

  23. Anonymous

    Pity there’s a photo from an article about a MAC product right under this article.

  24. Jackson

    Very well put!

    MAC have disgusted me with the way they have monopolised the professional makeup artist’s scene for some time.

    This just about sums them – absolutely shameless.

  25. nixdminx

    Nicely put and I never knew about such an awful thing. I will look into this more and will be banning Johnson & Johnson products from my house too. The range should be withdrawn out of respect; I wonder if or how it will sell with such a backlash.

  26. Ariel

    Really amazing post. x

  27. geisharock

    Great blog post, I am shocked that MAC (and Rodarte), with all their staff and PR departments could possibly have thought this was a good idea! I definitely think that they were purposely using this as a publicity stunt to attract attention. Well it got the wrong sort of attention! I think that MAC should be contributing ALL the profits they make to a relevant charity tackling the issues in Juarez…

    xxx

  28. I am a Mexican Beauty Blogger and I couln’t agree with you more. This is an offense…. Too bad!

  29. Kristina

    As someone said, yes, MAC has always been political but it has in recent years distanced itself from its early causes. They went from being a haven for those who didn’t fit the mould to being the cookie cutter itself. For the past few years, they’ve been actively courting the type of customer who would ridicule their original fan base. They’ve told employees to tone it down and asked gay men working for them to be less flamboyant so they don’t accidentally piss off conservative customers…the types of customers who at best don’t think gays should marry, some of them who possibly don’t think gays should even live. MAC is not who it used to be but their branding is so powerful that no one realizes that they are being Lauder-ized from the inside out. Even the MAC AIDS Fund has been focusing its energies on non-gay causes. So, to hear that MAC has done something culturally insensitive does not surprise me. They’ve eaten their own young…I wouldn’t expect them to care about anyone else’s.

  30. Susan

    Wonderful post. I have written about this travesty on my blog too:

    http://susysmakeupbox.blogspot.com/2010/07/mac-rodarte-controversy.html

    Hopefully MAC and Rodarte will wake up and realise that the only way to get out of the hole they have dug themselves into, is to donate all the money to charity.

  31. I also posted a small post in my blog. Since it is Mexican, we don’t need much explanation. But we are against this line
    http://glossboudoir.blogspot.com/p/opinion_19.html

  32. Wow, for usual I do not feature MAC on my beautyblog because I do not like MAC.

    I do not believe this, I mean… they did this?
    This is not only embarassing, this is… I am lacking words, honestly. Will feature this, too. Thanky BBB!

  33. Anonymous

    I’m surprised about MAC especially with the things they do for aids I guess human rights is joke to them. I’m so sickened by it that I will not be buying MAC or makeup from their parent company Estee Lauder.
    Jeez, what next concentration camp victims, twin towers campaigns? They should of had money donated to the cause before trying to capatalize on the victims of Juarez.

  34. a she organism

    Okay. While I agree with most of what you have said. There’s a couple of things that disturbed me a little about your writing:

    ….”The fact that the desperately underpaid female factory workers have probably never even heard of MAC, never mind Rodarte, let alone be able to afford a slice of either is adding insult to injury.” and also “The same women, let’s remember, who on financial grounds will never own even a MAC eyeliner.”….

    These statements sound a bit “not-well thought out” themselves. Just because (strictly going by your assumption) they can’t afford these things,it doesn’t mean they have never heard of such brands…and why couldn’t they “treat” themselves to a MAC product on special occassions…or maybe save up? You don’t know that these are facts.

    I know this is a possibly forgotten subject by now, but had to get that off of my chest. If I was one of those factory women…I think I would feel insulted by those lines that is all.

    1. Jane Cunningham

      This is a very old post, so it’s strange for me to come back to it now all these years later. I did read up and research the area – there are several massive beauty factories in that region (sorry but I’m not going to research again so I’m running from memory) and pay is notoriously low. I mean breadline low – so I think it’s not a leap of imagination to assume that £34 for a beauty palette would be out of the reach of the majority when that kind of money is a significant proportion of a weekly wage that could not be spent on something like a beauty product. I think maybe go back and research average wages, living conditions, social economy of that region (Juarez – where the incidence of female homicide is so high it has come under international scrutiny) and then ask yourself what matters more – bringing attention to the plight of these women (the MAC collection was withdrawn because of the outcry) or wondering whether they can afford MAC make up.

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