Liberty is launching its own fragrance line, LBTY, using renowned noses from around the world. An initial line-up of fragrances will be available later this month. The fragrances revealed to date are called Tudor, Wild Rosinda and Liberty Maze. As they’re known for their fragrance offerings and expertise, this seems to me to be quite a safe way to enter the beauty arena on their own merit. Although Liberty is technically a department store, it’s really cornered the fragrance market and one of the few stores that can ably host its own brand with confidence. Predicting success for this.
If rumours from salons are correct, it looks like Decleor may be pulling out of the UK. I noticed when researching that it stopped being sold on QVC in 2021 but apparently UK salon stockists will no longer stock the brand by the end of the year. Decleor is L’Oreal owned and was created in 1974 with the USP being the use of aromatherapy oils in both skin care and treatments. It was bought in 2014, along with Carita, from Shiseido, who purchased it in 2000. It’s not clear whether the entire brand is shuttering or just leaving the UK but if you have favourites from this brand it may be time to stock up.
The Body Shop is up for sale – nobody wants to see it go to private equity but a surprise name that has come up in the buying stakes is Waterstones. The owners of Lloyd’s Pharmacy is also in the running. But how good would a Body & Book Shop be? 😊 Don’t be surprised if you see the name Aurelius Group pop up too with past experience in cosmetic surgery and investors in the brand management company, The Swedish Cosmetic Group. I’m surprised that none of the known beauty names have cropped up for this – Unilever, for example, is always on the hunt.
Also considering their ‘options’ when it comes to selling or bringing on is Dr Barbara Sturm. Known for her extremely expensive skin care
Ben Gorham of Byredo and Suzanne Kaufmann have collaborated on Kaufmann’s newest oil range – Bregenzerwald. Gorham has creatively fragranced both a Fragrance Oil and a Body Oil. I hope it isn’t just me that Bregenzerwald (Austria) doesn’t trip off the tongue for but it does sound rather lovely with elemi, juniper, galbanum, sweet fig and jasmine. The more interesting thing really is the rise in ‘guest’ fragrancers creating limited editions for separate brands. H&M have being doing this with fashion for some considerable time so I hope we will see more in the beauty space.
H&M has brought on make up artist Raoul Alejandre to revamp their make up line. It looks very strong in gleaming red packaging (some might say Louboutin red) and makes its debut in stores this month with a few key pieces such as mascara and lipstick. The major roll out begins in 2024. Formerly Global Make Up Artist for Valentino, Alejandre has had creative partnerships with MAC, Dior and Revlon.
According to Global Cosmetics News, over in France, prosecutors are investigating a transaction between Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH (which owns Dior, Givenchy, Fenty, Benefit to name but a few) and an as yet un-named Russian businessman with suspicions of possible money laundering. There’s a preliminary investigation taking place and if that reveals it necessary, a formal investigation will follow. I’m guessing this will go nowhere – why would he need to launder money? He has literally tonnes.
In Japan, Shiseido (current owners of Drunk Elephant, Gallinee and NARS) is entering the wellness category with a new band, SBW (Shiseido Beauty Wellness). Although their press release goes to every conceivable length not to say the word ‘supplements’ I think that’s what we are looking at here. Possibly with salon treatments in selected spas – ‘wellness’ is a woolly category Their production goes full scale in February 2024 so we shall see. It might also become clear whether this is a Japan only endeavour or global.
Speaking of wellness, Pierre Fabre Laboratories has taken a minor stake in a women’s wellness brand, MiYe. The brand is French and uses adaptogens and vitamins to address women’s concerns. You can tell it’s French because they’ve got one for hunger pangs 😉 but mostly it’s gut health and hormonal balance that come to the fore. Pierre Fabre Labs own brands such as Klorane and Avene.
Leave a Reply