Coty’s buying spree doesn’t seem to have an off button right now – they’ve just bought the global license rights for Burberry beauty which covers skincare, fragrance and cosmetics, meaning that Coty will take over the development, manufacturing and distribution. Previously, the licensing was with the Shiseido group who has ended its Burberry agreements.
Buxom Cosmetics (also Shiseido owned, as is bare Minerals) is coming back to the UK for a second time. It’s launching into Debenhams.
A feature in the Drum about the dreadful Pepsi/Kendall ad, now pulled, as Pepsi realises its terrible clanger has a quote from Jason Snyder, chief technology officer of a ‘brand experience agency’ (I don’t know either!) that in just a few words has nailed a common brand ailment – myopia. “Brands often suffer from myopia when trying to articulate their own value to the marketplace,” he says. Never a truer word my friend, and particularly in the beauty arena. If you think bloggers have egos, you need to meet the brands! You can read more HERE.
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Currently upsetting the applecart is the CEO of Cocoa Brown tan, Marissa Carter, and in a great example of the above, she is quoted as saying, “Brands copy us now all the time. They try to do what we did with Cocoa Brown when we initially started…working with bloggers to try and grow their brand. But that game is dead now there’s absolutely no authenticity left in that business. When I started Cocoa Brown, bloggers still had credibility…they were telling the truth about the products that they tried. Now, the value of a blogger endorsement is nothing – there are no bad reviews anymore.’
Opinion is divided on whether she is right or wrong (she has a partial point), but sweeping statements like that reflect poorly on her own digital outreach and research because truthful bloggers are plentiful! It’s indicative of a general brand attitude that bloggers exist only to service brands and it’s our bad if we’re not prepared to play ball. There’s no insight into their own outreach methods or acknowledgement of the fact that the relationship between brand and blogger needs to run with mutual respect. I’ve seen some horrible treatment of bloggers recently from bigger brands with digital engagement managers whose egos have run out of control and lost sight of any true meaning of ‘engagement’, which has lead, quite widely, to a loss of respect from bloggers towards brands. I’ve just been reading a feature in BW Confidential sub-titled, “how make-up brands can come up with better social media strategies to exploit the reach of influencers” which again gives you a clue of what ‘engagement’ looks like on the inside. It would be nice not to be ‘exploited’ at all.
Apparently, the Body Shop is being eye’d up by Goldman Sachs. Got to admit, I didn’t see that one coming!
Nivea has also been forced to remove an ad for deodorant which declared ‘White is Purity”. See.. myopia again. At no point, being in such a rush of self-love, did anyone foresee a problem with this. It’s been removed now, apologies issued, but how did it ever happen in the first place. Nivea, please meet Pepsi for immediate group therapy. What’s really great on both counts is that the public stood up and said no. We’re questioning ads like never before and that’s as it should be.
At In-Cosmetics I picked up a whole pile of trade magazines that I don’t normally have access to. One of the big themes is MAC – and its unprecedented sales fall. Any chance this might be because ELC is cannibalizing its own market by snapping up brands like Two Faced and Becca? For MAC, market dynamics have changed completely. If you project forward a couple of years, the ‘less is more’ trend that is being predicted (led by a youth market by the way) spells trouble across the board for all beauty brands still in a frenzy of producing new and more. ‘Less’ is about discernment, not volume, so I think we may see MAC producing fewer collections going forward.
Sephora is rolling out its new concept stores – known as TIP (teach, inspire, play). Their north American president and CEO, says, “Our innovative Beauty TIP Workshop concept encourages and supports a thriving beauty community, one that’s focused on inclusiveness, promotes self-expression, celebration and education through our unparalleled service experiences, designed to teach and inspire our New York-based clients to play and discover beauty.”
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